Monday, 2 July 2012

weekends,wave hunting ,wind guru and web cams....lost ?

When i was younger ,like a grommet. living in a small coastal town on the east coast of Australia it was epic .....i lived in a small house with my parents and dog.We lived a short distance from the beach , whether the wind was north or south we had options for surf and beach life with the front beach or the back beach ......
running to see this is a really insane feeling......
There was no computers in the house to turn on and check in with the tides,swell size ,wind guru,or web cams to check your spot of choice .It was all about the stoke ,surprise, the froth or disappointment of the conditions of the ocean that day.
And you know what it was un real , to have that element of surprise at seeing the off shore wind blowing ,feathering the top of 3-4 foot waves and knowing as you run back to the house that you were
barrels are always welcome in my house hold
going to catch a couple before school  was great.
Being older now and having more on our plates its great to have all this technology at our finger tips ...
but i really miss that element of surprise , like when its good you had won the lotto , it was that good .
enjoying the sup ready for anything
So doing a test, i tried not to look at the condition reports for a week ....and you know what ? that feeling started to come back that feeling of stoke to check the waves ....and now i have 2 grommets of my own its the feeling i want them to get as they start there day ....the stoke, the froth , the surprise is there , no better way to start the day .....what ever board you choose to ride .....or what ever your into ...
short board,sup what ever you ride ..enjoy it.....
enjoying the last wave of the day ..looking forward to tomorrow 
Get out there and enjoy the day .......keep the froth ......justin

1 comment:

  1. Hi Justin Im Mark from New Zealand, you are my all time favourite SUP boarder. You are an awesome inspiration and motivator. Hope to one day have a surf with ya.

    Cheers mate